Threads of Duality: Dino Alves’ Battle of Light and Dark at ModaLisboa SS25

Dino Alves is a powerhouse in Portuguese fashion, showcasing his work at ModaLisboa since 1997. He has been a close friend of ZOOT and our team for nearly as long. An artist, fashion designer, trained photographer, and stylist, Dino has consistently delivered the grand finale at ModaLisboa for many years. His shows are always highly anticipated, provocative, and full of surprises—never without making a powerful statement. Dino´s Spring/Summer 25 collection at ModaLisboa was a vibrant celebration of color and contrast—elegant yet rebellious, delicate yet daring, and far removed from the darkness one might expect. Familiar references such as tulle, laser-cut details, Western-inspired jackets, bows, lace, and low-waist silhouettes were all present. Our guest photographer, Paul Edrice from Paris, captured the backstage lineup and the magnificent show for our readers.

Featuring Dino Alves SS25 backstage at ModaLisboa Singular, October 2024

Beauty Antonia Rosa and team with Clarins

Hair Helena Vaz Pereira and team at Griffe Hair Style

Words Dear Anushka

The traditional Feira Popular has been an ongoing source of inspiration for Alves. He designs costumes for the Marchas Populares, a traditional Lisbon parade that celebrates local neighborhoods with exuberant costumes and performances. This connection between folklore and fashion enriches his collections with elements of nostalgia and community spirit, adding cultural resonance to his otherwise avant-garde approach.

The show opened with sleek black ensembles, but even in their elegance, transparency played a key role. The knitwear revealed bare skin beneath fragile fabrics, setting a provocative tone for what was to come. As the collection progressed, it transitioned from dark, elegant forms to an explosion of vibrant, acidic colors and bold grid patterns, with tulle dresses loosely draped in a haute couture manner. This shift mirrored a deeper narrative—Alves’ exploration of the battle between good and evil, light and darkness, beauty and discomfort.

Adding to the intensity was the runway itself, covered in tiny black stones, forcing the models to navigate with graceful yet deliberate caution. This physical challenge paralleled the tension between opposing forces that Alves continuously plays with in his work, making the entire presentation feel both sensual and symbolic.

As always, Alves didn’t just present a collection; he made a political statement. The interplay of light and dark reflected deeper societal issues. Knitwear and tulle, combined with daring transparency and bold colors, created a narrative rich with meaning.

Dino underscored his finale by playing Culture Club’s “The War Song,” a nod to the tension between peace and conflict, light and shadow. The fragility of the tulle, paired with bold displays of the human form, made the show feel both intimate and defiant, with a provocative undertone of protest running through its core.