Luís Buchinho’s timeless vision
The elegance of fashion and function: Thanks, it has pockets!
In a world that constantly chases the ephemeral trends of fashion, Luís Buchinho stands as embodiment of timeless elegance. With over two decades of experience, this Portuguese designer has woven his narrative into the very fabric of the industry, crafting pieces that transcend the fleeting moments to become proven classics.
Photography Isabella Glock
Featuring Luis Buchinho AW24/25 backstage at ModaLisboa For Good, March 2024
Beauty Antonia Rosa and team with Clarins
Hair Vasco Freitas and Maria Lourenco Cabeleireios & team
Words Dear Anushka
Crafting the future with threads of the past – a journey through time and texture.
Born in the coastal town of Setúbal, Buchinho’s designs are infused with the hues of the Portuguese landscape – subdued blues, greens, and the sandy tones reminiscent of the serene coast. His signature style, a fusion of urban sophistication and practicality, has evolved from the “clever sexy” aesthetics of his early days to a more pragmatic, functional approach.
What sets his creations apart is not just their visual appeal, but also their utility – most pieces feature pockets, adding a touch of practicality to their elegance. Despite these shifts, the essence of his work remains unchanged: to craft garments that are not just worn but truly lived in, cherished, and passed down through generations.
From creation to catwalk.
Buchinho creates pieces that will be great allies in a woman’s wardrobe. In an interview with
ModaLisboa in March, he emphasized their essential role in facing life’s increasing challenges
in an “overly stylish world”.
Knitting the future: Fusing modern fabrics with timeless charm.
Buchinho’s expertise in knitwear design stands out, evident in his ability to transform
technical materials into captivating and innovative pieces. It’s a dialogue where modern
fabrics meet the timeless allure of flannels and wool velvets.
I love thick and soft-to-the-touch felted wools, such as mohair and alpaca. And I love mixing knitted elements with fluid fabrics.
— Luís Buchinho
In an exclusive interview with ZOOT, Buchinho shares his insights and emotions regarding
fashion.
ZOOT: What are the main sources of inspiration for your collections? How do you translate
these inspirations into your designs?
Luis Buchinho: My inspiration for collections might come from two very different directions one very pragmatic, the second very ludic. On the first, I’m mainly focused on what I feel the consumer wants for the season in terms of attitude, color, shape… and I try to design with a caps ‘D’ accordingly to my vision of what that desire might translate into in a collection. On the second, there is a choice of a theme that is in tune with my emotional personal stage at the time I’m designing the collection. That theme is used as a metaphor for what I’m feeling, and finds its expression in shapes, colors, and attitude.
ZOOT: How would you describe your signature style and how has it evolved over the years?
Luis Buchinho: Timeless is the first word that comes to mind, mainly because my structural lines are based in classic shapes. It has evolved from a what I call “clever sexy” to a more pragmatic, functional style.
ZOOT: What are some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced in your career and how have you overcome them?
Luis Buchinho: Over the years, 34 in my case, the problems tend to be annoyingly very much the same – money, means to deal with creativity over commerce. For an independent brand like mine, we feel very much the competition (we can’t call it competition, actually) coming from the low-end/high-end multinational brands that flood the market, leaving very little space for labels like mine. I have overcome this with a blind faith in my work and by keeping a straight line season after season. And work. Lots of it.
ZOOT: How do you see the future of fashion, particularly in the context of sustainability and technology?
Luis Buchinho: I think it’s very unclear. Sustainability will prevail only if the world drastically reduces its clothing production – something I believe will be in the hands of the consumer. Technology will bring a world of surprises, totally. New fashion will emerge without a doubt. It’s both fascinating and very scary at the same time.
ZOOT: How does your Portuguese heritage influence your designs?
Luis Buchinho: Mainly in my color choices for the collections – there might be the occasional ultra-bright exception – but my focus always revolves around a bluish, green, and sandy palette, taken from the Portuguese coast that has been my alley since I was born. Neutral and quiet tones, with a feeling of melancholy, are illustrated almost always with the use of black and white – the exact way I start an illustration: a white sheet, a graphite pencil. And then comes the color.
ZOOT: What have been some of the highlights of your career so far?
Luis Buchinho: To be honest, I think little of the past. I have my awards collection (thanks for them all!!) kept on a shelf, and sometimes I go back to see pics from some specific collections that I really find very special. My greatest and most difficult achievement wasn’t actually in fashion; it happened with my graphic novel “SAL”. Written by João Sá Mota (Andrade) and illustrated by myself, I fulfilled my childhood dream of drawing a book – and it was really, really difficult! A whole new experience. And I’m overjoyed with the result.
ZOOT: What is your favorite material and why?
Luis Buchinho: I am very confused with the use of leather nowadays (ethically speaking) because I really love it; therefore, I have kept it out of my last collections. I love thick and soft-to-thetouch felted wools, such as mohair and alpaca. And I love mixing knitted elements with fluid fabrics.
ZOOT: Can you share any behind-the-scenes anecdotes from your last runway show at ModaLisboa?
Luis Buchinho: Sorry, not this time- I was with a new team working and was totally in ‘control freak’ dull asshole mode 🤓
ZOOT: What is your philosophy when it comes to fashion and design? How does this philosophy influence your work?
Luis Buchinho: More and more, I love the feeling of timeless design – hard to achieve, but possible. I’ve had some truly beautiful experiences watching 20-year-old girls wear items from my early 90s collections – pieces purchased by their mothers who never got rid off them because they loved the pieces and their quality. It’s a whole new perspective, even for me, to experience that -things I thought would be savagely outdated look fresh, fashionable, and great. And they are in tune with the times, refreshing their wardrobe without buying crap. It’s a great way to reach the new generation, which is always more receptive to labels designed by young people like themselves.
ZOOT: Who would you like to see in your new collection and why?
Luis Buchinho: I hope, lots of women! But to start with: Isabel Branco.
Buchinho’s fashion: A Legacy of Beauty and Belief
Buchinho’s fashion embodies the beauty of simplicity and the strength of tradition. Rooted
in his Portuguese heritage, his designs reflect a legacy of timeless elegance and genuine
belief. Beyond the allure of the fashion industry, his creations resonate with a sense of
authenticity and enduring charm.
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Layout by Maxime Pereira.
To boot…
Check out more of Luis Buchinho on ZOOT here.
Luís Buchinho
@luisbuchinho | www.luisbuchinho.pt
From a past ZOOT interview:
