Backstage at LUIS BUCHINHO SS24 at ModaLisboa à la carte

Serenity of colors, Luís Buchinho's Renaissance

Luís Buchinho presented his new collection on the second day of ModaLisboa à la carte, in a narrative that reflects a profound transformation in the designer’s life. The calm, balanced silhouettes enveloped the models in soft, comforting materials from nature – cotton, linen, and silk. The aqueous, oceanic hues, accented by a hint of sunlight, serve as more than just a visual spectrum, they symbolize the trinity of body, mind, and soul.

Photos Frederico Santos
Beauty Antonia Rosa and team using Clarins
Hair by Vasco Freitas and Maria Lourenço and team with L´Oréal Professionnel Paris

SS24 Luis Buchinho with Alcino jewellry and Ergovisão eyewear

Words by Monica Lopes

The fashion show, held in the picturesque Pátio da Galé, was a manifestation of a lighter, fresher, and cleaner approach to design that we have seen off Luis Buchinho over the past. Luís, who studied fashion design at Modatex Porto, began his career in 1992, and his journey has been punctuated by achievements, awards, and recognition over the years. From the title of Best Women’s Collection by the ModaLisboa Association in 1999 to the Golden Globe for Best Fashion Designer in 2012 and 2016, the designer’s path has been marked by success.

However, the search for a deeper connection with the spiritual world leads Luís Buchinho to cut with the past, not only close his flagship store in Porto but also rethink the basics of design. This new collection is grounded on simplicity and purity, his models walked gracefully but bold, and the garments in heavy silk, pure cotton and layered linen appeared nearly tribal. Hooded, floating dresses, pencil skirts, diagonal cuts, tunics and extra long wide trousers created a moment of looking back in the past and to our future at the same time. A collection that protects and reveals, which is easy and comfortable to wear yet with a natural elegance and a raffinesse to each piece that makes it special.

Again he partnered with Ergovisão for simple 90´s inspired eyewear and designed a a jewellery line in collaboration with Porto based silversmith Alcino. The artisans collaborated closely with the designer in creating the “Luis Buchinho x Alcino” collection. The jewels that accompany the collection are titled “The Bird and the Egg”, inspiration taken directly from the beginning of creation, full of pieces inspired by fauna and flora. Luís Buchinho designed a complete line of rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces that play with the shapes of birds and eggs, resulting in delicate but deeply striking creations.