Backstage at DUARTE AW23 at ModaLisboa Core

From the dojo to the street

When Judo fighters began combat on a wide blue mat placed on the side of the runway, we knew we were in for a treat. In traditional Japanese martial arts such as judo, karate, aikido and kendo, the Japanese word “hajime” means “beginning” and is used as a verbal command to initiate combat. Drawing from her own experience as a judo practitioner since childhood, Duarte brought the sport’s attire to the runway with her FW23 streetwear collection titled “HAJIME”.

Photography by Diogo dos Santos
Beauty by Antonia Rosa and team with Clarins
Hair by Vasco Lx and team with L´Oréal Profissional Paris

Words by Fernanda Russomano

With belted silhouettes and colors that are reminiscent of the traditional judo suit—the judogi—the collection featured mostly unisex pieces that can easily be layered and matched, bringing the versatility recurrent in her work. The signature judo belts were reinvented outlining V-neck collars and wide hoods in tones of white, black and blue. Exclusive to this collection, Duarte designed a mint-colored print with shadow illustrations of judokas in combat, featuring in loose-fit trousers, bomber jackets and shirts.

Wraparound skirts and trousers inspired by traditional aikido and kendo garments paired with contemporary-cut jackets gave a tailored and streetwear feel to the century-old martial arts uniform recreated in new materials. Ranging from recycled polyester and neoprene to technical fabrics such as Bemberg™ and ReLiveTex®, the pieces were both practical and comfortable. Some looks also featured chunky intarsia-knit wool pieces in tones of blue, mint green and purple, creating jumpers, scarfs and even a draped knitted skirt.

Reimagining time-honoured garments is no easy feat, but with this collection Duarte proved once again that she knows streetwear. Though inspired by a more conservative lifestyle, Hajime smartly mixes traditional shapes with cropped tops, sparkly fabrics and plunging necklines, adapting ancient practices to present times.