Backstage at FILIPE AUGUSTO FW23 at ModaLisboa Core

From broad-shouldered corduroy to twisted translucent gauze

Photography by Diogo dos Santos

Beauty by Antonia Rosa and team with Clarins
Hair by Cláudio Pacheco and team at Chiado Studio with L´Oréal Professionnel Paris

Words by Guido Avelino

As the third act on the second day of Moda Lisboa CORE, Filipe Augusto built a collection that followed the premise of his SS23 work, implementing subtle contemporary notes in his conception of traditional Portuguese garments. Working with sustainably sourced materials like leftover fabrics from previous collections and deadstock materials, Filipe brings a sense of modernity in his design approach, making for a socially responsible collection.

With knot buttons inspired by traditional Portuguese aprons and scarves and twisted detailing, Filipe sets an evening-paced mood. Some references to his signature style are seen throughout, from the use of semi-sheer fabrics in single-sleeved tops tied to the shoulders, to floor-length dresses that follow the same approach and contort the social perception of gender. In long wraparound skirts tied at the waist, Filipe incorporates pinstriped shimmer fabrics, with a blend of see-through dresses and wide-leg trousers.

The brief introduction of colour is subtle, but not to be dismissed. In the less dramatic cuts of the overlong coats, we see flamingo pink cotton and caramel brown corduroy. Reminiscent of a pastel sunset, three other sets incorporate colour in tones of blue and chartreuse, balancing out the dark, tougher lines from the tailored looks that absorb light and accentuate the models’ figures.

Overall, Filipe’s work still bucks the trend and challenges the spectator, inviting us to an intimate visit with his vision.