LFW DAY 1: MARIA GRACHVOGEL A/W 2011

Maria Grachvogel chose as the muse for her Autumn/Winter 2011 season a dark and mysterious woman, the protagonist of Grimm”s fairytales as rewritten by Angela Carter. Digital prints of wild storms, clouds, birds and feathers were used for the blouses and long column mobile casino gowns, though rather than being merely printed on the fabric, the images seemed to work in harmony with the shapes of the garments and the silhouettes. One dress had an image of a bat that hinted at the erotic interpretations of vampire women and called to mind Jonathan Lennard”s photographs of his girlfriend, fashion model Susan, surrounded by bats.

Draped silhouettes prevailed, though among the most dramatic pieces there was a wide-collared coat in creamy wool, while the most saleable designs included cashmere tweed coats and trousers, the katter characterised by a rather flattering cut that focuses on lenthenening the legs.

By Anna Battista

See London Fashion Week coverage about Jena.Theo here.