Fashion Zoot Sees

Memento

From Berlin to Paris

Berlin showroom had one of its bi-annual showcases this March, representing five young fashion designers who are at the core of the vibrant German fashion scene. In collaboration with photographer Arnaud Ele, they created Memento, an editorial that aims to display the talent that is arising out of Berlin. The showcase took place at Tranoï a platform for new fashion design and a trade show partner of Paris Fashion Week, making it an opportunity for the designers to gain recognition abroad and present their AW24/25 collection to a wide audience
of press and buyers.

Direction and photography Arnaud Ele
Assisted by Rod Mambakasa

Styling Sandra Hemmink
Assisted by Billy

Models
Ibra Thiaw from Indeed Model Management • Jazz Ameinah from Viva Models
Louise Fankhänel from Mint Artist Management • Nomin Gantumur from Mirrrs Models

Studio PLATTE.berlin

Words and interview Letícia Marques

Special thanks to Daniella and Jerome.

The Berlin showroom is a bi-annual event that takes place since 2013 in Paris during Fashion Week, that aims to represent German fashion designers and expose them to a greater International audience. Designers which are based in Berlin can apply twice a year at the Berlin Showroom and they are selected by a panel of industry professionals, this season including iconic designer and artist Hussein Chalayan, who is teaching at the HTW Berlin. The whole project was initiated by “Projekt Zukunft“, part of Berlin’s Senat in cooperation with Arne Eberle press+sales and IDZ Designpartner This supportive program is mainly financed by the EFRE fund of the European Union and the Berlin Senate.

It’s an opportunity for new and established labels to increase their visibility in international markets. In Tranoï, a Parisian International Trade Show, Berlin Showroom is uniting with Mode Suisse and the Austrian Fashion Association. Since 2017 these three showrooms are set up together to form DACH Showroom, a joint sales showroom in Paris, where up to thirty labels get to present their collections.

The Berlin showroom was founded by entrpreneur Arne Ebele who is dedicated to grow fashion brands based in Berlin. Arne also is the publisher of Œ Magazine an independent fashion magazine from Berlin, that acts as a platform for young designers and the co-founder of PLATTE. A fashion store, platform and venue, on the Alex in Berlin-Mitte, which is making a name for itself with political actions and is taking a stand against fast fashion and exploitation; it’s quickly become a meeting point for Berlin creatives.

In collaboration with Cameroonian-born photographer Arnaud Ele, “Memento” is an editorial featuring the new ethical AW24/25 fashion collections of this season’s Berlin Showroom designers among others. An editorial full of contrasts and movement, alternating between strong colours and black-and-white. It’s visual approach reminds us a lot the psychological thriller ‘Memento’ from the year 2000, which was directed by Christopher Nolan.

The five main designers in this editorial not only share a particular interest in prints and patterns, knitwear and yarn, but also sustainable values, both in their choice of suppliers and in the production process. The styling of the shoot was done by Berlin-based stylist Sandra Hemmink, alongside and with the focus on the Berlin showroom designers, she include other Berlin based ethical fashion.

From left to right: **LOUISE** wears total look by VLADIMIR KARALEEV; boots TRIPPEN; sleeves ELODIE CARSTENSEN. **IBRA** wears bomber jacket and trousers DENNIS CHUENE ; pullover PUGNAT; boots TRIPPEN. **NOMIN** wears total outfit W1P STUDIOS ; boots HADERLUMP ATELIER BERLIN; headpiece ALISIA WOOD. **JAZZ** wears total outfit W1P STUDIOS; boots TRIPPEN; sleeves ELODIE CARSTENSEN.

This season’s lineup boasted a fusion of Berlin Showrooms veterans and promising newcomers. Established labels such as Pugnat and Vladimir Karaleev are sharing the spotlight with exciting up-and-comers CCY Currency, Dennis Chuene, and W1P.

ZOOT had the chance to catch up with all five Berlin Showroom designers by email and look closer at what is at the core of their creations.

CCY CURRENCY

Based in Berlin knitwear label CCY Currency by designer Henriette Zimmermann stands out for her experimental approach to yarns and fabrics. Elevating in each creation, the brand explores materials, resulting in unique and timeless pieces. Henriette’s garments are crafted by using zero-waste knitting techniques plus sustainable and repurposed fabrics. Made in Italy and Germany, CCY Currency’s creations combine artisanal expertise with cutting-edge technologies, offering versatile and durable knitwear.

ZOOT: How did you make the transition from traditional craft techniques to the latest technologies for sustainable production?

CCY Currency / Henriette Zimmermann: My design practice involves a lot of textile experimentation. Through this, I sometimes come up with new processes, such as the fusion/intervention technique, where the loops of the knit permeate the woven fabric, which gathers it in these areas and creates playful pleats. However, this isn’t as much of a new technology, but rather a new adaptation of traditional hand-knitting-machine techniques. In this lies one important factor for sustainability; which is to create something valuable both in terms of the material, as well as in the craftsmanship.

ZOOT: What kind of waste-free knitting techniques do you use in your production and how do these practices contribute to the impact on the environment?

CCY Currency / Henriette Zimmermann: In production and sampling we use a technique called fully-fashioned, which just means that all the pieces are knitted in the shape they need to be in, to be linked together to make the garment. So in comparison to using woven fabric – where there is a set width of about 1,50m from which the pattern pieces need to be cut out – this is a great way of avoiding material waste.

PUGNAT

With fine knitwear, limited-edition pieces made with 100% cashmere, Berlin-based Antje PUGNAT celebrates modern knitwear with Italian yarns and European fabrics knitted by hand or machine to create a sensual and enduring look. Each piece adapts to the body, creating a play of light, colour and movement. PUGNAT is slow fashion with love and philosophy. A craftswoman with a masters in fashion knitwear design trained at the Royal College of Art in London. Recognised for her talent, Antje attracted the attention of prominent figures in the fashion industry, including Wolfgang Joop, which led to a collaboration with the renowned Wunderkind brand. In 2011, she launched her own label, PUGNAT. Her passion for knitting transcends time and space, combining the rich history of the craft with contemporary and idiosyncratic techniques. Antje is a constant presence on the international fashion scene, showing her creations every year at Paris Fashion Week.

ZOOT: Could you share more about the philosophy behind the design and production decisions, especially with regard to the exclusive use of cashmere and the slow fashion approach?

Antje Pugnat: Luxury and true slow fashion means to me a product is made with love dignity and of course time. Knitting by hand gives me the freedom to create garments as a sculptor. These objects are statements of empowerment embracing the female body. The craftmanship and distinction they are made with are emphasized with the use of certified cashmere – as they are thought to be pieces for a life time.

ZOOT: Are there any techniques you learned at the beginning of your career that you still use today?

Antje Pugnat: My fascination with knitting stems from its absolute freedom. I start with nothing and create in three dimensions. My visual language explores sculptural forms with high attention to detail and craftsmanship. Each garment begins from nothing and evolves into a three-dimensional form, with my knitting techniques advancing from collection to collection and piece to piece.

DENNIS CHUENE

South African-born designer Dennis Chuene brings his vision to life in Berlin with his eponymous label. Founded in 2008 (formerly known as Vernac), Dennis Chuene focuses on one-of-a-kind pieces and limited-edition collections. Each meticulously tailored garment reflects Chuene’s dedication to individuality and quality. His philosophy rejects compromise, prioritizing intricate details and lasting construction in every piece. These are clothes made to be worn and cherished, not fleeting trends. The entire creative process – from design to construction – is handled by Chuene himself. “One man, two sewing machines” approach ensures a level of detail and personalization rarely found in today’s fashion landscape.

ZOOT: Given the “one man, two machines” approach, how do you deal with the challenges and demands of production while guaranteeing the integrity and uniqueness of each piece?

Dennis Chuene: It’s an uphill battle. I’ve just recently expanded operations and secured a bigger space as well as sewing machines. Whilst it’s a noble idea to do all the work myself, it’s awfully hard to keep everything and everyone satisfied.

ZOOT: What technique or detail can’t be missing from your creations, which technique do you consider your signature?

Dennis Chuene: Two techniques form great part of my design language. Hand stitches and string theory. Sometimes they come together on one garment. Inspired by scarification, string theory is my take on embroidery by use of cord/string machine stitched, twisted and turned on top of fabric. When a blade cuts in to the skin, when it heals, the skin pulls back together and protrudes. This is the idea behind my design technique, string theory. By use of the cord I try to mimic scarification on to clothes.

Total outfit DENNIS CHUENE; boots TRIPPEN; necklace ELODIE CARSTENSEN, bag ALISIA WOOD.

VLADIMIR KARELEEV

Vladimir Karaleev is known for his innovative approach to fashion. He emphasises the contrast of materials and the influence of contemporary art and architecture. Born in 1981 in Sofia, Bulgaria, he studied fashion design in Berlin and founded his label in 2010, quickly becoming a household name at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Twice nominated for the International Woolmark Prize, Karaleev continues to challenge aesthetic standards by placing the individual at the heart of his creations.

Total outfit VLADIMIR KARALEEV; boots TRIPPEN.

ZOOT: Your creations are inspired by contemporary art and architecture, do you have a “centrepiece” or are you looking for new inspiration for different collections?

Vladimir Karaleev: Generally I follow one concept, the core stays the same, this is my visual language. It always adapts to the change in fashion in terms of composition or proportion, following the zeitgeist. The inspiration comes always in the working process, it is a journey no-one can predict and the result is well arranged coincidence.

Pullover VLADIMIR KARALEEV; bag ALISIA WOOD.

ZOOT: How do you recourse your materials?

Vladimir Karaleev : I love the process of sourcing materials, especially deadstock fabric. It is always very spontaneous. Recently I have started to create my own fabric surface, where I use all my fabric leftovers and stuff them in a transparent layer, where you can see all small colourful pieces.

W1P STUDIOS

Founded in 2022 by the duo Charlotte Westphal and Anaëlle Delassus, W1P Studios is a Berlin-based fashion brand focused on sustainability, diversity, and inclusion. They create contemporary clothing using traditional and modern techniques, with a focus on ethical production and minimal waste. Their slow fashion approach involves releasing two collections per year, using upcycled and recycled materials, and often making one-of-a-kind pieces to order. They prioritize local manufacturing and fair wages throughout their production process.

ZOOT: Could you explain the process of conscious production with more detail?

Charlotte Westphal and Anaëlle Delassus / W1P Studios: The main reasons why our production is conscious is that we try to reduce overproduction as much as possible in the first step. Next, we only produce in Europe so that we have better control of the location and the conditions under which our products are created. Another very important part is that we work a lot with deadstock and in case we use virgin material, we only use natural fibers, like organic cotton, tencel or bamboo. Also knitwear is a big part of each collection as it allows us to nearly work zero waste with these pieces.

ZOOT: How do you combine traditional and modern techniques?

Charlotte Westphal and Anaëlle Delassus / W1P Studios: We celebrate craftsmanship and traditional tailoring a lot in our pieces, especially in our unique one-off pieces. For them, we still drape, then cut them in our studio or do some handsewing if necessary. We love to give these pieces add-ons, which can’t be done by machines. But of course we also use amazing softwares, for example, 3D-Modelling, to develop other parts of the collections. We also always keep an eye on techniques like 3D-printing or other technologies to see if they can work for us in future collections.