Inspired by the documentary “Paris is Burning“, an American documentary film from 1990 that shows the ballroom and voguing culture in New York City in the 1980s, Nuno Baltazar transforms the catwalk of ModaLisboa into his very own BALLROOM. The film uptodate is an important testimony to the gay and transgender scene as well as the African-American and Latino community of the time. Nuno´s collection serves as both, a vibrant protest and, at the same time, a celebration of the subculture of independant Portuguese fashion designers within the national fashion industry.
Backstage photography Frederico Santos
Beauty Antonia Rosa and team using Clarins
Hair Vasco Freitas and team at Vasco Freitas Salon
Words and interview Monica Lopes
Special thanks to Letícia Lima
Nuno Baltazar is setting the mood for his SS24 show of “ballroom” with disco balls all over the runway – sequinned knits were the main protagonists. Dry-stitch taffeta played the opposite role, creating vivid contrasts in silhouette and colour. Secondary tones like lavender, aqua, sand, smoke, and black, are intertwining with vibrant shades of pink, magenta, terracotta, chocolate, and silver. Each hue is like a musical note in a bold soundtrack, contributing to the visual choreography of “ballroom” and its celebration. Fabrics such as georgette crepes, dupion moiré, and wools play supporting roles, thus completing the cast with rich and dramatic textures.
Nuno took great pleasure in making several pieces for this collection by reusing old garments, designs that no longer had a purpose, were a left over and would have gone to the rubbish otherwise.
ZOOT met Nuno Baltazar backstage ModaLisboa to talk with him about the ideas behind his collection.
ZOOT: Nuno, could you tell our readers about the “ballroom” collection?
Nuno Baltazar: The inspiration came from the iconic documentary “Paris is Burning,” which delved into the “ball culture” scene in New York. This film led me to rethink fashion and its relationship with identity. I wanted to create something that celebrated designer fashion as a subculture within the fashion industry.
ZOOT: How would you describe the collection in a few words?
Nuno Baltazar:“Ballroom” is a creative protest and a celebration of designer fashion and independent brands. It is a visual feast where every individual is invited to become a protagonist, to build their own character, and to challenge fashion norms in an immersive experience.
ZOOT: What materials and colors did you chose for this collection?
Nuno Baltazar: Sequined knits take the center stage, shining with their unique intensity. They stand out like glistening jewels in dry taffeta structures, playing the role of antagonists and creating striking contrasts in silhouette and color. Additionally, fabrics like georgette crepes, dupion moiré, and cool wools add texture and depth to the narrative. The color palette is like a soundtrack with secondary tones like lavender, aqua, sand, smoke, and black, contrasting with vibrant shades of pink, magenta, terracotta, chocolate, and silver.
ZOOT: How do you see “ballroom” influencing the designer fashion culture in Portugal?
Nuno Baltazar: I hope I can challenge the norm and inspire a deeper appreciation for designer fashion and independent brands in Portugal. We want to demonstrate that fashion goes beyond mere clothing; it is a form of expression and a protest of uniformity. We aim to bring designer fashion to the forefront of Portuguese culture and emphasize its importance in the national fashion scene.
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To boot…
Check out backstage NUNO BALTAZAR AW23 on ZOOT.
View the complete NUNO BALTAZAR SS24 collections here at ModaLisboa.
NUNO BALTAZAR
@nunobaltazarstudio | www.nunobaltazarstudio.com