Backstage at SANGUE NOVO SS24 at ModaLisboa à la carte — part two

Opening doors for a new generation

Since 1996, ModaLisboa has given emerging young fashion designers the opportunity to present their designs in the Sangue Novo competition. This year, ten young people had the chance to present their creations and six of these designers will have the chance to compete for awards such as IED – Istituto Europeo di Design and RDD Textiles, as well as having their colletions in the public eye at the fashion show, opening doors to the future.

Backstage photography Thomas Probosch

Beauty Antonia Rosa and team using Clarins

Hair Helena Vaz Pereira and team at Griffe Hair Style using L’Orèal Profissional Paris

Sangue Novo Designers part two
Diogo Mestre • Gabriel Bandeira • Isabel Monnerat • Maria do Carmo Studio • Maria Miguel Martins

Supported by Seaside

Words Letícia Lima

At the 61st edition of Moda Lisboa, the first stage of the Sangue Novo competition was attended by ten young designers who had the opportunity to present their collections, and with the support of companies such as: Seaside, Calvelex, RDD Textiles and Riopele; the competitors were able to create collections with diverse inspirations, exploring different types of materials, but with the concern of also having a lower environmental impact, using deadstock and upcycling, as well as natural printing methods.

ZOOT magazine had the great opportunity to take a closer look at these collections backstage and show a little more of the inspiration and details of the creations.

Diogo Mestre — finalist

Player

For the competition, Diogo Mestre showed us “Player”, a collection that pays homage to the innocence of childhood, where our dreams have no limits. Inspired by his own childhood, Diogo’s collection reflects the transition from childhood to adolescence and how this is a key moment for building ourselves as individuals.

His designs dance playfully with colours and textures, in a mix of techniques that bring a child’s dream to life. The collection begins with a look that resembles pyjamas, and from there, Diogo is free to dream: he explores digital prints, denim as accessories and different knitting techniques that resembe the texture of beloved teddies.

Player is a bold reflection of its creator’s essence, with a distinct self-reference, resulting in an artistic journey that speaks of his passions in a vibrant way.

Gabriel Bandeira — finalist

In [a] Wolfskin

The inspiration for this collection is the duality that we often find in the antagonists of the series or films we consume, and how there is always a moment when we discover why they act the way they do. Just like in real life, where each of us has unique contexts, a complexity that is rarely fully revealed.

Gabriel translates this theme through the distortion of the materials in this collection, creating an artisanal and rustic aesthetic. There is a great emphasis on the use of natural fibres and robust denim. The colour palette is mysterious, full of dark tones that create a mysterious atmosphere and his designs are deconstructed and reassembled, inviting everyone, regardless of their uniqueness, to explore this world.

Isabel Monnerat

Tropiderm

The collection is about a tropical society that has been affected by the relentless forces of globalisation and the media, and how these things have created a society wrapped in plastic, erasing local cultures. This departure from tradition is especially palpable in tropical societies, where external influences have left an indelible mark.

When we set out to go further in this collection, another theme emerges: Water and its deep connection to everyday life in the tropical world. Isabel takes us on an immersive experience by applying elements referencing inflatable floats and vibrant colours, following her critique of our plasticised society, she explored the material in every design she brought to the runway, either by resembling its effect or by using the material itself.

Maria do Carmo Studio — finalist

Life’s a Picnic

Within this collection, three guiding principles are key: Minimizing material use wherever possible; crafting “staple pieces” for summer and classic textile patterns including fabric manipulation; designing pieces that can be easily replicated by others. “Life´s a picnic” is presented in vibrant colours and textures, exploring the limits of matter and form. Maria´s pieces stand out for their use of different materials, such as wooden beads, ribbon collages and the use of overlapping materials to create a print. The designs also explore summer and its “clichés”, the infamous tourist shirts with an “I Love Madeira” print, souvenirs, sandals and the use of strog colours such as pink, green and yellow.

Maria Miguel Martins

Apego

The theme Maria Miguel Martins explores is attachment; that deep, abiding affection we form with something or someone, an enduring and sometimes intense devotion. This collection is a visual journey into the realm of attachment, where every one of us holds something or someone dear.

Drawing inspiration from childhood photographs that capture the bonds between children and parents, Maria’s collection conveys the essence of attachment through tactile experiences and visual storytelling.

The fabrics in the collection serve as a canvas for the theme, exploring techniques such as intricate stitching, fabric prints that give the feel of wrinkled fabrics, and pressed fabrics adding layers of meaning.The clothes are designed to envelop the wearer, creating an intimate and personal connection. “Apego” is a celebration of the lasting bonds we share with the people and things we hold dear.