Backstage at NUNO BALTAZAR SS23 at ModaLisboa Oasis

Vibrancy sparks from a garden of grey

Beauty by Antonia Rosa and team with Clarins
Hair by Vasco Freitas and Maria Lourenço and team with L´Oréal Professionnel Paris

Photos by Analicia and Tom Barreto

Words by Guido Avelino

Nuno Baltazar opened his Spring Summer 2023 collection with a neon orange bang. The vibrancy of colour on the over-the-shoulder empire sundress was the first taste of Nuno’s imaginative interpretation of the witty world of the Edies, as portrayed in the 1975 documentary Grey Gardens, by the Maysles brothers.

The collection alludes to styles from different eras of the duo’s lives: from their prosperity in the 1930s to the decay of their beloved home in the 1970s. Yet Nuno’s choice of colour is a celebration of their energy amongst the grey jumble rather than an alternative ending to their narrative. “The colour, sophistication and lightness were very different from what was their reality,” he says. “I wanted to paint their inspiring vibrant energy even after losing their assets, clothes and even dignity at some point.”

And following the orange, there was pink. Apart from the sweet nod to Little Edie’s scarves and stockings, look after look Nuno takes a more contemporary approach to the garments, styling some of the looks with sequin opera gloves and monochrome cloche hats. Drop waist dresses in an array of colours and cuts also made the list, in a common language with the pieces that intertwined drapes and tie-nods—balanceing past and present.

When talking about the women whom he dresses, he mentions they are “like the sea, there are days when it’s calm and others when it’s not” in reference to the late Portuguese poet Sophia de Mello Breyner. His individuality is expressed through his emotions and it translates in the way he expresses his affection for these fascinating stories.

Putting on a regal air, the show ended with gracious amethyst-purple tones. The last five looks were composed of mostly dresses, with the exception of a sleeveless blouse paired with caramel capris. Concluding Nuno’s perception on the matter, he ended the show with a thigh-high slit dress that sums up the whole aesthetic of the collection. And in the words of our beloved Little Edie, “I think this is the best costume for today.”