KIEV TRAVEL REPORT PART III: THE LOWDOWN

City of Witches, City of Creed: Sofia Bak explores the unexplained in her native Kyiv…

GETTING THERE:

Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com) flies to Kyiv’s more central airport Zhulany from Luton.

Ukrainian Airlines (www.flyuia.com) flies to Kyiv, Borispol from Gatwick.

BA (08444 930787 www.ba.com) flies to Kyiv, Borispol from Heathrow.

STAY:

InterContinental, Vulytsia Velyka Zhytomyrska 2a (00380 44 800 083 3808; www.ichotelsgroup.com) centrally located next to St. Sophia and St. Michael’s cathedrals, with a breathtaking terrace view from the trendy bar filled with a stylish crowd. Doubles from £230

Hyatt, Vulytsia Alla Tarasova 5 (00380 44 581 1244; www.kiev.regency.hyatt.com) opposite the InterContinental on St. Sophia Square, Kyiv’s Hyatt is a state of the art structure with incredible modern glass elevators and a welcoming cigar lounge with great view of the city. Doubles from £340

Opera, Vulytsia Bogdana Khmelnitskogo 53 (00380 44 581 7070; www.opera-hotel.com) A themed hotel featuring suites with antique furniture and not without its own legend about some written music that was discovered in the building which was converted into this hotel. The restaurant serves up an incredibly well-made Argentinean steak traditionally prepared on a sizzling hot stone brought right to your table, as well as some local favourites like Chicken Kiev and offers fantastic specials like bring your own bottle. Doubles from about £312

Absolut, apartments in the center (00380 44 530 8150)

EAT & DRINK:

Concord, Vulytsia Pushkinska 42/4, business-center “Credit Agricole”, 8th floor (00380 44 234 7788; www.carteblanche.ua). One of Kyiv’s loveliest restaurants, with a peaceful terrace overlooking the capital’s rooftops where you can sit for hours on end. Impressive menu filled with everything your heart might desire. Concord boasts a great Ukrainian-born chef who mastered the art of sushi making and created a fabulous organic menu incorporating a feng shui approach in his food combining French and Italian traditions, elements of eastern culture and new culinary discoveries. About £35 for two without wine.

Stefano’s, Vulytsia Volodymyrska 4 (00380 44 279 1121). Kyiv’s best Italian. Upscale cuisine, conveniently located near Andreevsky Uzviz, offers a VIP room and a summer terrace filled with classy locals. About £40 for two without wine. Try the prune stuffed rabbit on the bed of crème kale.

Ikon Bar, Vulytsia Basejna 5a (00380 44 234 6996). A dark and cozy gothic bar with good atmosphere and a trendy young crowd performing tricks on the bar top. The menu includes traditional favourites like Russian Salad or as locals call it “Olivie” and a full range of cocktails. About £10 for cocktails.

Tsarske Selo (Tzar Village), Vulytsia Yanvarskoho Povstannia 42/1 (00380 44 288 9775). One of the most popular places for national Ukrainian cuisine. Dishes like jellied minced rabbit and of course various types of varenyky (stuffed dumplings) are served with sour cream. About £30 for two without wine.

Belvedere, Dniprovsky Uzviz 1 (00380 44 288 5070; www.belvedere.kiev.ua). Conveniently located opposite Lavra, this multilevel restaurant has stunning panorama of the city. The chef uses up-to-the-minute interpretation for classic dishes and offers sushi as well as a special offer for business diners. About £35 for two without wine.

WHAT TO DO:

Reconnect with Nature

Lakes, forests, parks and two botanical gardens take up more than half of the city. Lounge around the Central Botanical Garden where you can enjoy the famous chestnut trees, lilac, cherry blossom, magnolia trees and rose alleys along with the locals. Or venture into the forest to look for mythical dwarfs and magic herbs.

Be Cool

Visit the oh-so-trendy Pinchuk Art Center. The gallery quickly became one of Europe’s coolest spaces and chilled-out hang outs for the local cool crowd.

Get Out of Town

Take a trip to Pirohovo, the closest place you can go to get away from the city and experience a traditional Ukrainian village in a form of an open air museum.

WEATHER TO GO:

If you’re going mostly for sightseeing end of March through end of May is a great time for a visit, you’ll manage to avoid the city heat and enjoy the botanical garden at its most mesmerizing. If you’re more of a nocturnal creature visit at the end of May through end of August, to enjoy open air nightclubs, summer terraces and some beach time.