The new ‘1%’ collection by Spanish designer Gori de Palma, presented last week at ‘la Sala Hub’ in Madrid, reflects the importance of aesthetic values amongst breakaway or rebel groups. The collection is intended as a sociological study of these minorities and de Palma aims to highlight the involvement of such ‘dissident’ groups within the fashion process, believing that they effectively create fashion through their intent to remain strictly outside collective trends and consumer manipulations.
The project evolved with inspirations from American “Rider” culture, which arose in 1947 surrounding a rally where riots were initiated by a group of motorists. The American Motorcycle Association (AMA), in an effort to protect it’s image, tried to explain that it was only 1% of the motorists who caused the trouble; and so was born the myth of the ‘1%’ which was to become an important symbol of freedom, solidarity and insubmission.
A summary of this ‘dissident’ style, from original rebel bikers ‘The Hell’s Angels’ of the ’50s to the more recent ‘Mean Fuckers’ of the ’80s, would be of predominantly black pieces incorporating leather with metal studs and symbolic detailing.
By Lucy Mclean
